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How Western Second-Hand Clothes Undermine African Textile Industry
How Western Second-Hand Clothes Undermine African Textile Industry
Sputnik Africa
Used clothing exports from the West to Africa are a remnant of colonial rule and are often labeled as support for the "poor." However, since the 1990s, the... 21.01.2025, Sputnik Africa
2025-01-21T15:44+0100
2025-01-21T15:44+0100
2025-01-21T15:44+0100
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How Western Second-Hand Clothes Undermine African Textile Industry
Sputnik Africa
Used clothing exports from the West to Africa are a remnant of colonial rule and are often labeled as support for the "poor." However, since the 1990s, the rise of fast fashion has turned this trade into a damaging force, increasing the dependence of local populations on these bales of ruin.
In Ghana, Nigeria, and other African countries, once-flourishing textile industries are now in decline. Known for their cultural significance—such as Ghana's Kente and Nigeria's Aso Oke — and their role in economic growth, these industries are struggling to survive under the weight of cheap second-hand clothing imports from Europe and the United States of America. What began as "charitable" donations has turned into a flood of imports, locally called “okrika” in Nigeria and "obroni wawu" in Ghana, that have disrupted local markets, weakened economic stability, and threatened cultural traditions. African Currents interviews three experts in the clothing industry to explore the forces driving this issue and its impact on the future of these communities.The influx of second-hand clothing sabotages the local economies, cripples local designers, and allows established Western fashion brands to outcompete and overshadow African brands locally, reflects Nana Addo Tamakloe, a Ghanaian media entrepreneur and founder of Accra Fashion Week.Chidera Muoka, a Nigerian fashion enthusiast and former editor-in-chief of Marie Claire Nigeria, suggests measures to encourage local consumers to support local designers.Lastly, Kobenan Kouame Djabaho, a former manager at Da Viva and a textile industry professional from Cote d'Ivoire, decries the extensive damage to local textile industries, particularly in Ghana and Nigeria, and proposes policy measures to stem the destruction ravaging the sector.To find out what else our guests had to say, tune in to the African Currents podcast, brought to you by Sputnik Africa.In addition to the website, you can also catch our episodes on Telegram.► You can also listen to our podcast on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Deezer, Pocket Casts, Afripods, Podcast Addict.► Check out all the episodes of African Currents.
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How Western Second-Hand Clothes Undermine African Textile Industry
Used clothing exports from the West to Africa are a remnant of colonial rule and are often labeled as support for the "poor." However, since the 1990s, the rise of fast fashion has turned this trade into a damaging force, increasing the dependence of local populations on these bales of ruin.
In Ghana, Nigeria, and other African countries, once-flourishing textile industries are now in decline. Known for their cultural significance—such as Ghana's Kente and Nigeria's Aso Oke — and their role in economic growth, these industries are struggling to survive under the weight of cheap second-hand clothing imports from Europe and the United States of America.
What began as "charitable" donations has turned into a flood of imports, locally called “okrika” in Nigeria and "obroni wawu" in Ghana, that have disrupted local markets, weakened economic stability, and threatened cultural traditions.
African Currents interviews three experts in the clothing industry to explore the forces driving this issue and its impact on the future of these communities.
The influx of second-hand clothing sabotages the local economies, cripples local designers, and allows established Western fashion brands to outcompete and overshadow African brands locally, reflects Nana Addo Tamakloe, a Ghanaian media entrepreneur and founder of Accra Fashion Week.
"This is part of destabilizing the economy of Africa and African people. And it's a way for them to get rid of their old clothes. So, they are consistent with new fashion whilst we are subjected to their second-hand clothing [...]. It means that even in our own country, our designers are not going to be able to compete with the Guccis, the Dolce and Gabbanas, and the Versaces and all those silly brands that they intend to push worldwide because our brands won't have the capacity to make that money and promote themselves as much," Tamakloe says.
Chidera Muoka, a Nigerian fashion enthusiast and former editor-in-chief of Marie Claire Nigeria, suggests measures to encourage local consumers to support local designers.
"I would say the steps that can be taken will be more on an infrastructural basis [by the government], right? Create that infrastructure that enables these local textile producers to produce on the scale, right, that would create the demand. For them to be able to supply people at a price point that is affordable to most people," Muoka remarks.
Lastly, Kobenan Kouame Djabaho, a former manager at Da Viva and a textile industry professional from Cote d'Ivoire, decries the extensive damage to local textile industries, particularly in Ghana and Nigeria, and proposes policy measures to stem the destruction ravaging the sector.
To find out what else our guests had to say, tune in to the African Currents podcast, brought to you by Sputnik Africa.
In addition to the website, you can also catch our episodes on
Telegram.► Check out all the episodes of African Currents. 
